Monday, October 2, 2017

Day 22 - Cherboug, France


Welcome to Sherbet. OK, technically it's spelled Cherboug but it's pronounced like the cold dessert. This port is part of the Normandy region. I learned it's called Normandy because of the number of people from Norway that came here circa 300 AD in search of wealth. Today we're in search of our own wealth, that being the massive monastery of Mont Saint Michael.

A small abbey began construction around 200 AD for a small group of Celtic monks on a small rock extending out from the wooded island. Around 700 Saint Aubert of Avranches had a dream repeated three times from the archangel Michael that he was to build a sanctuary unto him. The dream was so real that the Saint was to have left a mark on Aubert's skull (the marking and his skull is in a museum). Times goes on and it's deemed too small so Charlemagne begins expanding it as do several other Dukes of Normandy after him. As money flows into Normandy the building continues to grow. In the 1300's, as people flocked here to study and reflect Christianity-ideas a decision was made to create a small town to house those that made the pilgrimage.
Signs from the parking lot to the trail leading to the Mont
Always a long line for the free shuttle. People don't want to do the 45min walk
Isn't it a magnificent building?
Probably 20 yards away it breaks through a little bit
The idea was God sits atop the mountain, followed by church leaders and finally the peasants (this small town)
This is after all a fort so a drawbridge is essential for security
There are roughly 230 steps to the top
And none of the ways to the top are ADA-friendly



Time to buy a 10euro ticket
This is one of the most visited spots in all of France, even with locals
A tsunami in 709 stripped all the trees from the island making it easier to expand the modest building
The entrance to the most 'modern' chapel
Masons were paid by the number of stones they cut so each put their name (symbol) into each stone
This is a building created by ancestors from Norway, must pay tribute to the sea
1547 "The 4 Evangelists"
1522 "Adam and Eve Cast Out of Paradise"
Showing some of the completed work of the cloister
Almost all of the original limestone pillars have decomposed due to the sea salt water and are being replaced
There was plans to add an additional wing here in the 1300s, more on that in a bit
Monks Reflectory
Since monks live a life is poverty and modesty this room is void of any creature comforts or luxuries, thus the simple floor, simple wood roof. There isn't even a fireplace for heat for during the cold winter
Under the 'current' rooms are the original rooms - as expansion just ment building on top of the existing structure
Statue of Saint Michael coming in dream to Auburt
Suites for the monks
At least here they had massive fireplaces to cook and gain heat
The great pillared crypt. This is holding the large (first pictured) chapel up
From the dark days where this building was used as a prison - a giant hoist
Prisoners were forced into the wheel like ginny pigs to turn it
Supplies were brought up along the exterior track
Home of the knights (located under the cloister)
You can see the varied stone colors resulting in the decades of various construction project
Remember that large window in the cloister? That's it in the top center. Plans were to add a structure there atop the grass. But when money got tight in the 1300's it was either build the town below or make another addition. The town won
Fog has finally broke
Statue of St Michael
Since this is all built on one small rock over the years they had to construct legs to hold the new weight onto bedrock


Time to explore the outside area.
See the long ramp? That's what the wheel was used for, bring things up that incline
I need to explore this area, especially the north gatekeeper house
Tide can swing 30 feet. I'm curious what's inside the gatekeeper house
Easy to see how high the tide can come up
This silt / mud is like quicksand. Stand too long as you'll sink. Don't step flat on it and you'll be on your butt very fast. It's almost like wet clay

Such an amazing dwelling. No wonder it's a favorite with tourists and visitors alike.
It is Europe so it costs cash to pee
This is a tourist trap too. 9euro. Cash only for most food vendors here
The view we should have seen when we first walked upon this place
20 min after the previous photo we're leaving and quickly see the fog coming back in, swallowing the dwelling


I'll admit most of the stats shared here I learned by listening to a private tour guide I stumbled upon. So, to right the karma gods, if you ever need a tour of Normandy, I highly recommend Hanne Aurelia (Les Escapades Guidees d'Aurelia). 10 hours later (2 hours each way) and we're back at the ship.
Why build an unloading platform when you can just use shipping containers
Proof France is a nuclear nation
Another reason Omaha beach was selected to raid in WW2 - the Germans had created fortes this deep water harbor
Each opening had a fort and the harbor was laced with mines. No way could Allied forces come here to launch an attack / deliver supplies


I have to tangent for a moment. I've loved time in France. The direct, progressive thinking has been refreshing. If they want a bite to eat, they eat, not wondering if the food came from a free-range tomato farm. If they want to go to the bathroom , they do, not worried if the person next to them might possibly be someone using the wrong biologically-correct toilet. They're not overthinking things or stressing over unnecessary topics. This "simplistic" thinking has been a treat to experience.

Tomorrow - Giverny and Rouen, France

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